27 June, 2006

Politics:
Uzbek political parties back decision to rejoin CIS security bloc
Uzbekistan destroys 700 kg of drugs
Afghanistan remains main drug threat to neighbouring states
UN drug chief sounds alarm over European cocaine consumption, Afghan opium

Econimics
Chinese energy giant to prospect for oil in Uzbekistan
Uzbektelecom board recommends dividends for 2005
Uzbekistan has tallied its natural gas reserves
Ipoteka Bank supports small business

Society
New center to implement Korean-funded project
Russian and Uzbek veterans meet in Tashkent
Uzbek journalists get award of National Flour Fortification Programme
Uzbekistan: Tracking caravans


UZBEK POLITICAL PARTIES BACK DECISION TO REJOIN CIS SECURITY BLOC

"A decision to lift the moratorium" creates conditions for the formation of a collective security belt, which considerably increases the reliability and stability of the processes of regional economic integration," Nurdinjon Ismoilov, member of the National Democratic Party of Uzbekistan (NDPU) faction and the chairman of the committee for legislative and judicial issues under the Legislative Chamber (lower house) of the Oliy Majlis (Parliament) of the Republic of Uzbekistan told a Regnum correspondent on 26 June.

Ismoilov stressed that the NDPU faction "fully supports the position expressed by the Uzbek president at the Minsk summit on the issues of deepening economic integration and setting up a customs union".

The Liberal Democratic Party of Uzbekistan (UzLiDeP) believes that lifting the moratorium on work in the Collective Security Treaty Organization (CSTO) is one of the main results of the Minsk summit, Baxtiyor Yoqubov, chairman of the executive committee of the UzLiDeP's political council and a member of the parliament's lower house, told the Regnum correspondent on 26 June.

He said that Uzbekistan's decision to lift the moratorium on active work in the CSTO "is important for both Uzbekistan and the further development of the organization". The MP said that "the member states' efforts to develop the CSTO into a more universal and multifunctional organization which can adequately react to all new challenges and threats to both national and collective security can only be welcomed". (Russian news agency Regnum)

UZBEKISTAN DESTROYS 700 KG OF DRUGS

Uzbek National Security Service (NSS) destroyed 700 kg of drugs on order of the government of Uzbekistan on 26 June, representative of NSS Shuhrat Azimov said.

He said the drugs were destroyed at gas stoves of Tashkent industrial enterprise. Azimov said 430 kg of them were heroin, 182 kg – opium, 73 kg – marihuana, 7.7 kg – hashish and other drugs.

Uzbek law enforcement bodies seized drugs during operations against drug business. (UzReport.com)

AFGHANISTAN REMAINS MAIN DRUG THREAT TO NEIGHBOURING STATES

Afghanistan remains the main drug threat to the neighbouring states, UNODC Representative for Central Asia said.

The Office of the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime in Uzbekistan hosted a press conference dedicated to the International Day against Drug Abuse and Illicit Trafficking, observed on 26 June.

Opening the meeting, the Representative of the Regional Office for Central Asia of the United Nations Office for Drugs and Crime for Central Asia James Callahan spoke of the achievements in the work on fighting drug abuse and illicit trafficking. In particular, he noted the increasing amount of drugs seized around the world annually. Thus, in Uzbekistan the total of 467 kilos of narcotics were seized in 2005.

Speaking of the situation in Central Asia, he noted that despite the measures taken by the administrations of the countries of the region, the number of drug users, as well as the volume of transit through these countries does not appear to decline.

"Neighbouring Afghanistan, one of the world's largest producers of drugs, remains the main drug threat," he emphasized.

The economy of the country (Afghanistan) is divided into to equal parts, one of which is the income from the production of narcotic substances. Global production of opium is today estimated as 4,620 metric tonnes. Afghanistan's share makes up 4,100 tonnes, or 89%.

The total number of drug users today makes up 200 million people. The countries of North and South America lead the list with the highest showings of drug users, according to the information stated in the annual World Drug Report.

"The success at the global level will depend on the adherence of the world community to the idea of transition from controlling the drugs problem to its elimination," says the report.

This year UNODC is implementing a traditional campaign "Drugs Are Not Child's Play".

The aim of the campaign is to draw the attention of parents, teachers and public officials towards the problem of the spread of drugs among children. In the framework of the campaign, it is planned to distribute information about life without drugs.

The day earlier, the UNODC Regional Office in Uzbekistan conducted a series of campaigns together with the Republican Public Children's Fund "Sen Yolgiz Emassan" (You Are Not Alone), and Kamolot Youth Movement.

During the press conference, the results of the journalists' contest on elucidation of the prophylactic of drug abuse and HIV/AIDS were summed up. The contest was intended to activate journalists' efforts in elucidation and formation of public opinion about the problems said. (UzReport.com)

UN DRUG CHIEF SOUNDS ALARM OVER EUROPEAN COCAINE CONSUMPTION, AFGHAN OPIUM

Cocaine consumption in Western Europe is reaching alarming levels while opium production in Afghanistan could rise again this year despite a welcome decline in 2005, but overall the world drug problem is being contained, according to a new United Nations report released yesterday.

The UN Office on Drugs and Crime (UNODC) 2006 World Drug Report, issued on the International Day against Drug Abuse and Illicit Trafficking, shows that global opium production fell 5% in 2005 while cocaine production was broadly stable. Seizures of both drugs, especially cocaine, reached record highs.

Consumption of cannabis, the most widely used illicit drug, continued to increase while the market for amphetamine-type stimulants stabilized. Africa is growing in importance for trans-shipments of cocaine and heroin to Europe.

"Drug control is working and the world drug problem is being contained," UNODC Executive Director Antonio Maria Costa said in presenting the report, noting that trends in the global drugs market were moving in the right direction but governments needed to step up their efforts to reduce both supply and demand.

"This is true whether we look over the long term or even just over the past few years. Humanity has entered the 21st century with much lower levels of drug cultivation and drug addiction than 100 years earlier. Even more importantly, in the past few years, worldwide efforts to reduce the threat posed by illicit drugs have halted a quarter century-long rise in drug abuse that, if left unchecked, could have become a global pandemic." In a message marking the Day, Secretary-General Kofi Annan called on everybody to play their part in the battle against drugs. "We need more consistent leadership from Governments. We need better examples from role models whose drug use damages more people than just themselves," he said.

"Our efforts must focus especially on young people - through outreach, peer-to-peer networks, and using opportunities such as sport to keep young people active, healthy and confident. That also means engaging and encouraging parents and teachers to play their part in full," he added.

Mr. Costa highlighted three key weaknesses in the global drug control situation: heroin supply in Afghanistan, the world's largest opium producer; cocaine demand in Europe; and cannabis supply and demand everywhere.

Although the area under opium poppy cultivation fell 21% in 2005, the first such decline since 2001, "Afghanistan's drug situation remains vulnerable to reversal because of mass poverty, lack of security and the fact that the authorities have inadequate control over its territory," he warned. "This could happen as early as 2006 despite large-scale eradication of opium crops this spring."

But Laos, until the mid-1990s was the third largest illicit opium producer in the world, slashed cultivation by 72% in 2005 and is on the verge of becoming opium-free. "Laos has made spectacular progress which has not received the attention it deserves," Mr. Costa said.

He noted that cocaine demand is rising in Western Europe to alarming levels. "I urge European Union governments not to ignore this peril," he said. "Too many professional, educated Europeans use cocaine, often denying their addiction, and drug abuse by celebrities is often presented uncritically by the media, leaving young people confused and vulnerable."

The report devotes special attention to cannabis, the world's most abused illicit drug with an estimated 162 million people, 4% of the global population age 15-64, using it at least once in 2004, and consumption continuing to rise. Mr. Costa warned that cannabis was now considerably more potent than a few decades ago and said it was a mistake to dismiss it as "soft" and relatively harmless.

Evidence that it can cause serious mental illness is mounting. "Today, the harmful characteristics of cannabis are no longer that different from those of other plant-based drugs such as cocaine and heroin," he said. (UzReport.com)

ECONOMICS

CHINESE ENERGY GIANT TO PROSPECT FOR OIL IN UZBEKISTAN

Uzbekneftgaz (Uzbek oil and gas) national holding company and the CNPC (China National Petroleum Corporation), China's national oil and gas prospecting and development corporation, have signed an agreement on prospecting at energy investment fields in Uzbekistan.

Under the international document, which was signed in Beijing on 8 June this year, the Chinese company will carry out prospecting at five investment fields - Ustyurt, Bukhara, Khiva and Ferghana - in Uzbekistan, Khalq Sozi reported.

The report said a total of US$208.5 million will be invested in the large-scale work, which will last five years. Of this amount, US$88.3 million will be spent on the minimum programme.

The Chinese side is registering in the country a branch company that will work out prospecting programmes and operate the project. The company, which will be set up on a fifty-fifty basis, will prospect new fields. Here, the Chinese company will guarantee funds for the development of new oil and gas fields.

According to the Uzbekneftgaz press service, as well as prospecting, the foreign company will fund the training of specialists from our country at Chinese colleges. It plans to spend US$500,000 on this, the report added. (UzReport.com)

UZBEKTELECOM BOARD RECOMMENDS DIVIDENDS FOR 2005

Board of directors of Uzbektelecom has recommended paying 80.63 soums per ordinary share and 250 soums per preferential share in dividends for 2005, the company said in a statement on Monday.

The company plans to spend a total of 2.7 billion soums in dividends for 2005.

The annual general meeting of shareholders (AGM) is scheduled to consider the dividend payout on 30 June.

Uzbektelecom's net profit amounted to 4.01 billion soums in 2005. Uzbektelecom paid 20.54 soums per ordinary share and 250 soums per preferential share in dividends for 2004.

Uzbektelecom's charter capital consists of 29,687,983 ordinary shares and 1,114,984 preferential shares with a face value of 1,000 soums each. (UzReport.com)

UZBEKISTAN HAS TALLIED ITS NATURAL GAS RESERVES

According to the Institute of Geology and Survey of Oil and Gas Fields of the national holding Uzbekneftegaz, Uzbekistan has natural gas for another 31 year at this production rate. Known oil reserves will last Uzbekistan almost 22 years, and condensed gas reserves up to 25 years. Oil and Gas Prospecting Concept was drafted in Uzbekistan for until 2010. Its implementation is expected to increase the volume of known reserves by 521.1 million tons.

One hundred and ninety-four oil and gas fields are known on the territory of the republic, including 147 with recoverable gas and 102 with recoverable oil. Eighty-eight are being developed, and 58 more ready for development. The known reserves were estimated by early 2006 to amount to 5,903 trillion cubic meters of gas, 817.7 million tons of oil, and 360 million tons of condensed gas. (The Times of Central Asia)

IPOTEKA BANK SUPPORTS SMALL BUSINESS

In implementing economic reforms in Uzbekistan, along with other measures, special attention is given to the development of small business and private enterprise. At the same time support is provided to small commodity producers and proprietary classes. A lot was done for this purpose last year, and correspondingly positive results are being observed. But in order to raise the economy to an even higher level, and for domestically produced goods to saturate the market stronger efforts are required of the sector.

As a result, the government of Uzbekistan set the tasks, such as increasing the volumes of domestically produced goods, raising employment, and improving the population's living standards. It is hard to overestimate the role of small business and enterprise in attainment of these goals.

The government is providing great incentives for the small business and enterprise entities. Along with these opportunities to develop the sector, the country has a sold economic and legal foundation. This, in turn, creates opportunities for the financial sector represented by the banks such as Ipoteka Bank (Mortgage Bank) to finance small businesses and entrepreneurs using their own funds and the funds of foreign credit lines.

Today, the bank's strategic goal is to create additional incentives for the small business and enterprise entities through expanding the range of services provided, improving their quality, thereby assisting the development of country's economy.

During the first quarter of the present year, for the purpose of raising the efficiency of services provided, the bank opened 10 new mini-banks. In total, the bank's branch network now constitutes 38 branches and 143 mini-banks.

In financing the projects of small business and private entrepreneurs, Ipoteka Bank gives priority attention to the organization of export-oriented and import-substituting production, manufacturing of consumer goods based on locally available raw materials, and creation of additional jobs.

Today, in accordance with the regulatory documents of the Central Bank of Uzbekistan on support of small business and private enterprise entities, as well as in accordance with the Ipoteka Bank's internal policies, loans are issued to small business and private enterprise entities, and the periods of repayment are identified in accordance with the purpose of their issuance.

The loans issued by the branches of the bank are primarily aimed at the financing of projects on procurement of equipment and component parts for the production of commodities based on locally-available raw materials and development of household services provided to the population.

During the first quarter of 2006, loan assets held in the real sector of the economy increased by 2.6% compared to the beginning of the year, and totaled 3.6 billion soums. The volume of total loan investments during the reporting period reached 137.4 billion soums. Of them, 38.3 billion soums, or 27.9% were short-term loans, and 86.7 billion soums (63.1%) – long-term loans.

The credit policy of the bank envisions the provision of funds to the real sector of the economy, further intensification of the investment processes, increase in the crediting of small business and enterprise entities for the domestic products to saturate the market.

In the course of the first quarter, this sector was issued loans in national currency for the total amount of 9.8 billion soums, including 9.5 billion soums of the bank's own funds. The remaining portion was taking from the off-budget funds. Consequently, 1,460 additional jobs were created.

During eh first quarter of the present year, the bank issued beneficial loans in the amount of 3.343 billion soums to the agricultural enterprises growing cotton and grains for state consumption. This indicator increased by 127%, or 716 million soums against the preceding period. In particular, for the production of cotton, the bank issued 2.604 billion soums and for the production of grains – 739 million soums of beneficial loans. (UzReport.com)

SOCIETY

NEW CENTER TO IMPLEMENT KOREAN-FUNDED PROJECT

Uzbek Prime Minister Shavkat Mirziyayev signed a resolution to create Center on development of multimedia general educational programmes to implement South Korean-funded project on equipment of Uzbek schools.

The resolution of Cabinet of Ministers "On measures on creation of Centre on development of multimedia general educational programmes under Public Education Ministry" said the center will implement project funded by South Korean Economic Development and Cooperation Fund (EDCF).

The EDCF allocated US$30 million soft loan to the Uzbek government to implement project "Informatization of general schools in Uzbekistan". The credit issued for 30 years under 1% APR.

The center's main tasks are development of electronic educational multimedia software, adaptation and localization of educational resources and publications from other languages to languages, used in education process in Uzbekistan.

The center will also develop and hold trainings of staff of institutes and re-train staff of public education. (UzReport.com)

RUSSIAN AND UZBEK VETERANS MEET IN TASHKENT

The Delegation of the Club of Heroes of the Soviet Union and Cavaliers of the Order of Glory paid a three-day visit to Tashkent. Russian and Uzbek veterans of the World War II met.

Veterans laid flowers to the monument of Grieving Mother at the Square of Memory and Honour, visited military memorial cemetery, where many Soviet soldiers and officers who died in Uzbek hospitals are buried.

"Our delegation arrived in Tashkent to meet our Uzbek brothers and once again remember how that horrible war started, how we went to the front, how we believed in the Victory," said the Hero of Soviet Union General-Colonel Nikolay Antoshkin. "Uzbeks were great military men, they were brave, ready to help at any time.

Our club decided to revive our ties with the Uzbek veterans, to join our efforts in carrying the memory of the great Victory".

Russian delegation was received by the Fund of Veterans "Nuroniy".

Russian Club of Heroes and Cavaliers of the Order of Glory unites over 2,000 people. In Moscow it opened its own museum. The club publishes memoirs, puts memory boards, teaches young people.

In Uzbekistan, only one out of each 400 heroes of Soviet Union are still alive. Among them is Gulam Karimov – native citizen of Tashkent. 26-year old lieutenant, graduate of Andijan MIliary College, he accepted commandership over the battalion from the senior man in charge, and led the infantry in the battle under the heavy fire of Germans in Romania.

Out of 800 people, 17 survived. Karimov was also very close to death. The sniper that was after the officers, wounded him at the very end of the battle. He has been using crutches to walk ever since… Russian delegation visited him in Kibray with a special visit. "Hitler failed to cause a quarrel between the nations of the former Soviet Union, which he very much wanted to do," said 89-year old veteran. "We were like one family, and that is why we won." (UzReport.com)

UZBEK JOURNALISTS GET AWARD OF NATIONAL FLOUR FORTIFICATION PROGRAMME

On the threshold of the Day of Journalists and Media the jury has summed up the results of the contest for the "First National Award in the Fields of Press, Television and Radio Broadcasting of the National Flour Fortification Programme" organized by the Ministry of Healthcare, UNICEF, and Journalists' Creative Union of Uzbekistan.

On 23 June, the winners and participants of the contest gathered for a special ceremony at Radisson SAS Hotel. The leading specialist of the Cabinet of Ministers Tanzila Norbaeva, Deputy Minister of Healthcare Asomiddin Kamilov, chairman of the Journalists' Creative Union of Uzbekistan Sherzod Gulamov, Representative of Uzdonmahsulot (Uzbek Grain Products) Joint-Stock Company Lyudmila Grifina, World Bank specialist Dilnara Isamiddinova, as well as administration of different media of Uzbekistan attended the event.

In her speech, the leading specialist of the Cabinet of Ministers, member of the National Alliance for Fortification Tanzila Narbaeva said, "the history of the project dates back to 2001, when with the support of the Asian Development Bank a programme was started in Uzbekistan on iron and vitamin fortification of flour and iodine fortification of salt. A lot has been done since that moment, and a lot needs to be done ahead. Successful functioning of the programme largely depends on the population's awareness of the importance of the problem raised. The determining role in raising population's awareness belongs to you, journalists. This award is the recognition of your achievements in elucidation of the benefits of fortified flour and prophylactic of anemia among the general public. The contribution of the mass media is invaluable for the whole programme. Please accept my most sincere congratulations on your professional holiday and wish you higher achievements and success in your work."

Awards were than handed to the winners. One after another the winners in each of the nominations were announced. The journalists held their breaths before each announcement. To remind the readers, the contest was announced on 22 December 2005 for the purpose of motivating media representatives in elucidation of the prophylactic of iron-deficiency anemia, as well as stimulating a general rise in the demand for fortified flour and baked products. Over 130 works of the journalist of national and regional media were submitted, including television and radio- programmes, printed articles and photographs. All works were appraised by competent jury according to several criteria.

The winners were: for television programmes – Muhtarama Ulugova received computer for "Salomatlik Dasturi" programme broadcasted on the Uzbekistan channel; Hafizahon Hayitmetova received digital video camera for "Aziz Nemat" television programme broadcasted on Yoshlar Channel; Yolkin Okbutaev also received digital video camera for "Zamon Dasturi" programme broadcasted by Samarkand regional television and radio programme; for radio programmes – Saida Zakirova received computer for "Salomatlik garovi" radio programme broadcasted by National Radio; Zufarjon SUltonov received a digital tape recorder for the "Sogligimiz uz kulimizda" radiobroadcast broadcasted by Ferghana Regional Television and Radio Company; and for printed publications Alla Zuhanovich and the team of Class Newspaper received computer; and Gavhar Boykulova and Shifo-Info Newspaper also received a computer.

Hafiza Hayitmetova, "Aziz Nemat" Programme, Yoshlar Television and Radio Channel (winner, prize: digital video camera) said, "today I would like to thank the organizers of the contest who gave such a high mark for our hard work. Working over this programme, I, myself learned a lot. I learned that the National Programme for Flour Fortification was developed in 2003 on the initiative of the Uzbek Government. The following year, in 2004, Uzbekistan was among the first countries of its region to receive the grant of the Global Alliance to Improve Nutrition. The grant was intended for the implementation of the project that was entitled "National Programme for Flour Fortification". Its main aim was to reduce the level of anemia among women and children of Uzbekistan by 20%. The project aimed to create an effective and reliable base for flour fortification. In the future, in our programme we will continue to elucidate this topic and will put our best efforts to create a new nutrition culture and encourage people to consume microelement and vitamin fortified products."

It should be noted that the statuette awards "Non-Polvon" were handed over to each of the winners together with the prize, and created a "red carpet" atmosphere. I can confidently state this, as I joined the row of winners of the contest (second prize in the "Press" nomination).

The contest does not end for the journalists at this point. Rustam Haydarov, Communication and Marketing Officer of National Flour Fortification Programme, said, "This contest will be conducted on annual basis. The presentation of the technical conditions of the contest "Second National Award in the Fields of Press, Television and Radio Broadcasting" will be held in the early July 2006. The results of this contest will be summed up in January-February 2007". (UzReport.com)

UZBEKISTAN: TRACKING CARAVANS

Mario Koch , Contributor, The Jakarta Post

Words can evoke fantasies. Names can make us start daydreaming. Samarkand, the Great Silk Road - entire pages of One Thousand and One Nights seem to take shape in our minds, Oriental sounds and smells seem to enchant our ears and noses.

It is early morning in the Uzbek capital of Tashkent. The main train station lies as tidy in the Spring sun as the whole city does. After the devastating earthquake of 1966, much of its centuries-old grandeur was replaced by modern Soviet-style city planning and architecture.

On the platform, my train is ready for departure to Samarkand. The golden letters on dark green ground adorning it bear a promise - Registan , they say.

It costs only 5,600 som (US$4.50) for the comfortable journey into a mythical world.

Women in outdated uniforms serve green tea and beef sandwiches while clangorous Russian and Uzbek music turn the sleepiest passengers wide awake.

Having left Tashkent behind, we pass wide rocky desert plains alternating with green rolling hills. You'd think at least two different creators are answerable for these landscapes, one using sharply pointed pencils, the other using pastels and smudge effects.

From time to time, shepherds can be seen - sitting in the shade of some lonesome tree they rest against their staffs, tending to their flocks of Hissar sheep. Not only the wool, but the oddly distinct rump of this breed makes for their utmost importance - like the camels' hump, it serves to accumulate fat.

Plov, the Uzbek national dish made of rice, vegetables, raisins, spices and topped with meat, would deserve its name without the rice being simmered in that special fat. True beauty lies inside, I am reminded.

Drowsiness and the train's gentle jostling make me start daydreaming of ancient times.

We are following the Great Silk Road, the caravan trails connecting Europe, the Middle East and Asia that were the veins of international commerce before the boom in sea trade. From horizon to horizon, traders, slaves and heavily laden camels made their way through heat and dust to reach the bazaars of the fertile oases.

I, too, am heading for them. My train makes the 285 kilometers to Samarkand in less than 4 hours. It's pleasantly cool, fully air-conditioned, when a train crier calls: "Samarkand... Samarkand!"

The station is huge. Concrete, steel and blue-toned glass dominate the structure.

Outside, neither Aladdin and his wonderful lamp nor a single camel are waiting for me. That is, nothing so far that fits into my freshly rekindled childhood imagination.

I opt for a taxi to the old town. Samarkand is mostly a modern city, the third largest in present-day Uzbekistan with a reputable university and more than 400,000 inhabitants.

But above all, it is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world and for centuries.

An incredible population of more than half a million people was said to have lived in ancient Afrosiab by the 10th century. Unfortunately, there's not a lot left to see of this early settlement nowadays - Genghis Khan paid it a memorable "visit" in 1220.

Thus, our taxi is heading for what Amir Temur (Tamerlane), in 1370, made into the capital of his great empire that reached from India to Turkey. Timur and his successors inhabited Samarkand with skillful artisans, craftsmen and scientists from all over the dominion, and erected inconceivable architectural gems.

There's no time for the cup of tea I am offered at the hotel. I`m feeling almost magically drawn to the square after which our train was named, the most magnificent ensemble of Islamic buildings along the Great Silk Road - the Registan.

And then I stand in front of it, staring open-mouthed. The mystery of One Thousand and One Nights , the splendor of the Orient, the majesty of centuries-old architecture - the three madrasah (Muslim academies) - are every bit as impressive as I imagined.

They all face the square. Built between the 15th and 18th centuries, the monumental buildings are kept in perfect condition.

Flanked by high, svelte minarets, the madrasah of Ulugbek and Sher-Dor border it to the left and right. Their impressive entrance arches are decorated with mosaic panels in different tones of blue, green and brown, featuring splendid geometrical ornaments.

The azure and golden dome of the Tillya-Kori Madrasah in the back reflects the midday sun. This place, where colorful markets as well as cruel public executions were held, radiates beauty.

There are benches opposite the square. Not entirely sure if it is just to enjoy or in order not to collapse, I sit down.

Slowly I recover, and I feel like seeing more of Samarkand. A short walk takes me to the restored mosque of Bibi-Khonym.

Timur had the mosque erected after his return from India. It was the most gigantic mosque ever constructed at the time, with the cupola of its main chamber raised up to 40 meters high.

In his Book of Victories , Sharaf-ed-din, a contemporary of Timur, wrote about it: "Its dome would be the only one, if the sky had not been its repetition; the arch would be the only one, if the galaxy had not been its pair."

To make the most of the slightly peculiar mood with which Bibi-Khonym leaves me, I continue, following the theme of beauty and death. I reach the great necropolis Shakh-i-Zinda by crossing a modern-day Samarkand graveyard located on a hill to the east of town.

The granitic and marble gravestones here bear the portraits of the dead buried underneath. I look into faces of old men in highly decorated uniforms, of women partly hidden by jilbab and of smiling children. Between them, the wind swirls leaves from the surrounding mulberry trees through the narrow paths.

In the background, the 20 mausoleums of Shakh-i-Zinda meander down the hill. There, they seem to gush over the ancient city wall. Forty-four tombs lie covered beyond their walls and beneath their majolica-tiled domes.

This architectural ensemble's name translates as "the living king". Legend has it that Kusam-ibn-Abbas, cousin of the Prophet, was buried here. It is said that he was beheaded for his faith, then took his decollated head and went into the "deep well", where he still lives.

Not only Shakh-i-Zinda itself, but also the great panorama over Samarkand and the Zeravshan valley in which it is nestled, make for the unique atmosphere and beauty of the place.

Against a background of mountains and never-ending vineyards, I see the modern city: its houses, parks and boulevards. Scattered in between though, like islands of a living past, are the portals, domes and minarets of the ancient town. They still dominate Samarkand's architectural silhouette.

I feel the urgent need for some down-to-earth experiences to round out that slightly aloof day. A stroll over to the city's main market promises some contact with the living. Back to the present. It appears to be the ideal finale.

The market, like elsewhere in Uzbekistan, is partly canopied and greenish glass is used for the roof - thus, the food always looks a little pale.

From behind the bulks of spring onions, strawberries, dried fruit and almonds, dozens of rows of gold teeth smile at me. Little children proudly present their precious coronas - a true status symbol in gold-rich Uzbekistan.

The people are incomparably friendly. Seldom have I experienced such hospitality as I did in this Central Asian country. Almost no day went by without me being invited into somebody's home - to have a cup of tea, some plov, even to dance inside the living room.

At market, I am offered to try Korean salads, verdant green apricots and small goat-cheese taw . Women in colorful dresses show off wheel-sized flatbreads. I end up buying dried fruit - kilos of dried fruit. I like the old seller.

Outside, the sun is about to set over the Registan. The city turns into silhouettes of orange and violet.

The next day I will see Gur-e Amir - "tomb of the king". It is Timur's great mausoleum. Gur-e Amir is said to be the architectural precursor of such gems as Agra's Taj Mahal. Inside an intricately decorated room, the conqueror lies buried underneath a huge, single block of jade.

When Timur died in 1405, he left an extensive empire that boasted a fascinating capital - this is Samarkand.